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The Badile and the Salbitschijen.

~ Saturday, 27th August 2011

 I've been working for Martin Moran alot this summer, all good, but this last week has been particularly special. Four of Martins regular clients, Bill, Des, Aiden and Roy were keen for an adventure without the need for axes or crampons this week. Our first objective was the North Ridge of the Piz Badile in the Bregaglia. A stunning mountain, an honest line and a superb climb. The Sasc Fura hut was our base for the climb and an early breakfast allowed us to get to the bottom of the ridge in the cool of darkness. First light saw us geared up and ready to go. The stunning sunrise was only surpassed by the quality of the Badile granite, barely a loose rock in sight. We pitched some sections, moved together on others and made good time on the ascent. The route was fairly quiet, so we choose to descend the North Ridge, again moving together for some sections or abseiling others. This way down isn't too problematical, but several other parties choose to descend to the south and come back to the Sasc Fura via the Trubinasca Pass, slightly quicker. A good sleep at the hut was followed by a mellow transfer to the Salbit hut, close to Andermatt. Another early rise, graced with an equally stunning sunrise saw us in a good position on the popular South Ridge of the Salbitschijen. More superb granite, a bit of a breeze and good banter between all the climbing teams allowed for a second fantastic route of the week. Some of the moves on this route are world class!! Later that day after a refreshing dip in the river by the car park we were back on the road, Evolene bound. A brilliant week. Many thanks to Martin, Aiden, Roy, Bill and Des.