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Lagginhorn and Weissmies by their finest ridges.

~ Monday, 31st August 2009

My final work for Martin Moran this season involved two of the finest alpine rock ridges in the eastern Valais alps. My week with David Rowlands and Don McGill started with some poor weather, which slowed our acclimatisation and training a little. However, as a result of not being too tired too soon, we had some energy and enthusiasm left in the tank for a full on Hohsaas area hit.



The South ridge of the Lagginhorn gave us some fantastic climbing, often frosty on the west side, keeping us alert, but dripping with fantastic climbing. Up, down, around and about, this climb has it all!

4000 metres seemed to be the order of the day, so the following morning we went back to the Lagginjoch, this time turning right for the Weissmies North ridge. Noticeably harder than the Lagginhorn, this ridge wakes you up right at the beginning. You can't doze off either, as the climbing just keeps coming and coming! The Grande Dalle is meant to be the hardest pitch on the route, but to be honest, there are many pitches of a similar standard and quality, but only shorter and not bolt protected. This ridge is fantastic and as soon as the rock is over you have another half an hour or so on a superb snow crest leading to the summit. Awesome! Many thanks to David and Don for their patience with the weather and fine efforts on two superb alpine routes.